Monday, November 13, 2017

It's skinCARE, not skinSHAMING! || Rivet Licker

Why is shaming natural processes the default form for getting people to buy cosmetics? Sure, even I thought that if I didn't wear makeup or care for my skin, I would never be beautiful. In fact, I feel more beautiful now because I can make the choice to wear makeup and make sure my skin is healthy.



Skincare is probably one of the major culprits, with tag-lines such as "anti-ageing", "anti-wrinkle", and "pore minimizing" etc, being the reason we are being conned into buying products to stay "youthful". On top of this, I go into depth about how I feel about the appearance of my own skin.

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I saw these Tumblr screenshots via the Vellum & Vinyl Facebook Page.


Screenshot of post by Tumblr user archemedes.

Screenshot of post by Tumblr user thatwriterchickyouknow.

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I have never agreed more on a topic – except the stab at Lush; they are far more diverse and body positive than most brands.

Dior recently made headlines for choosing 25 year old Cara Delevingne as the face of their new anti-ageing range. WHAT. THE. HELL?
[Huffington Post]

What should skincare culture be?
It really should be about taking care of your skin as an organ. A good skincare routine can really do wonders for skin health, but you shouldn't have to be pressured to do it out of shame of being dirty or looking old.

As I've mentioned before, the "60% of what you put on your skin is absorbed" trope is absolute bunk. Skin serves many functions, it's not just there for your viewing pleasure (stretch marks are totally normal, thanks).

Functions of skin
Barrier – keeps your insides in, and foreign matter out
Sensation – allows you to experience touch, pain and heat
Thermal Regulation – when it's hot, you sweat; when it's cold, you get goosebumps

As you get older, your cell regeneration cycle begins to decrease, this is what contributes to what we call "ageing".  There is so much concern over the appearance of "ageing" skin that a whole industry is built on reversing this process. Let's just say, reversal isn't possible.

Prevention is key
What does preventative skincare have to do with skin health? It's probably the most important thing you can do to maintain your skin's function.

START WITH SUN PROTECTION
Doesn't matter if you're pasty and catch on fire, like me, or are melanin rich; you really need to focus on sun protection. It's a myth that dark skin does not require the use of an SPF rated products. The risk of skin cancer is still prevalent among dark skinned individuals and is often found at later, more dangerous stages. Here is an informative article published by SBS News about skin cancer for Indigenous Australians. This is also very relevant to my PoC readers.

This is absolutely the most important step, especially for those of us who have Lupus and other medical conditions that cause photosensitivity. Fluorescent lamps also emit some UV rays, particularly UVA, which are the waves that destroy the collagen matrix, leading to structural issues of the dermis, causing the skin to wound more easily. Don't expose yourself to excessive sun if you don't have to and remember to take your Vitamin D supplements!

SLIP. SLOP. SLAP. – Australian Proverb (Sid The Seagull)
More information.

CLEANSE YOUR SKIN AT NIGHT
Cleansing your skin is one really important thing because at the end of the day, if you have been outside, your skin has been exposed to the elements, and it includes dirt and other stuff that wound up hitting your face. This can exacerbate conditions like acne and forms of dermatitis, which can be painful. It is also important to remove makeup if you wear it. Basically, the day wants to come off before your face is in contact with your pillow.

I wrote a story for my old college's blog about how to choose cleansers that are appropriate for your skin by type and condition, and really would like to revisit this in the future.

MOISTURISE
You don't need a fancy schmancy $600 moisturiser to do the job, you just need something that will hydrate and reinforce the barrier function of your skin. Sometimes, the simplest formulas are the best. I have found that there are hidden gems at budget prices, but splurging is also good once in a while. If I didn't blog for a living, I wouldn't get to experience the prestige and luxe end of cosmetics; so I like to cover a fair assortment of budgets for my readers.

As an optional step prior to moisturising, a slightly acidic toner can help to restore the barrier function of skin after cleansing and give your micro-biome a chance to flourish. Yes, bacteria lives on your skin and some strains help to protect you!

EXFOLIATE
You may think this is a bit overkill at this point, but exfoliating your skin is actually really good for skin health, when you do it according to the directions and use sun protection! The natural process is called desquamation, but sometimes your skin needs a little help doing it. There has been suggestion that some types of exfoliation, such as the use of retinoids, can be useful in preventing some skin cancers!

This article published on skincancer.org by Ronald L. Moy, MD, and Shannon Famenini has some information. Dr. Moy has a range of skincare called DNA Renewal and I have tried one of the products.

On top of it, avoid using bicarbonate of soda at all costs, it's not an ideal exfoliator at all.

THAT'S IT.

Everything else can be done as acts of self care, because who doesn't love a relaxing bubble bath and facial treatment?!

There is a lot more to be said on this topic, especially with some cultural critiques needing to be addressed, but that is for another post.

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MY EXPERIENCES



I'm in the boat of fair complexion, freckles, and looking youthful; I mean, really youthful, almost childlike. I am a nearly 30 year old woman who looks immature, but having said that, my genetics and development were the deciding factors, not the environment or lifestyle. In any case, my skin shouldn't be the way it is because of how unhealthy I actually am.

It's actually a real struggle not looking my age. I'm not even sure what somebody my age should look like, but I look too young and this means I am not taken as seriously as an adult. I do enjoy taking care of my skin and using skincare. I stopped looking at claims and started looking at formulas. I know enough to know what works for me and how my experiences (through #RivetReview posts) shape the efficacy of a product.

Being young looking will have its advantages later on in life, but at 30, I am a prime target for ageist propaganda, but it's worse when sales try to push these onto younger and younger people. Honestly, I don't want to hear about how people my age should be shamed into tackling fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, and saggy skin. Starting at this age and it only gets worse as the Earth circles around the Sun a few more times.

The choice to use cosmetics is yours and only yours to make.
As mentioned in the opener of this post, I feel more beautiful now that I have realized I'd been given the choice to use makeup and skincare. The most important thing to know about using cosmetics is that there is no shame in being natural or fully made up.

Nobody should feel pressured into it, and nobody should be shamed for not being into it.

Please let me know your thoughts on this in the comments!

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This post is presented as a knowledge piece. Acquisition of products and/or services stated alongside each item, my thoughts are honest.
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